How to Grow Shallots

Growing shallots from bulbs is an easy and rewarding process. Like their counterpart, garlic, this is a long season crop that likes well-draining soil and a cool winter. Once matured, they can be harvested and stored for replanting or eating all winter long!

What Are Shallots?

Shallots are a type of biennial multiplier onion in the same family as Egyptian Walking Onions and Perennial Potato Onions. We often grow shallots and other biennial or perennial crops as annuals for a reliable harvest of bulbs and greens. The great benefit of multiplier onions as compared to regular onions, is that they can be replanted year after year and can be easier to grow from bulblets than onions are to grow from seed. 

The Difference Between Shallots and Onions

Both alliums, shallots and onions have some overlap both in the garden and the kitchen. But it’s important to distinguish between them! Shallots are part of a group of alliums known as multiplier onions. This group is defined by plants that produce two or more bulbs per plant. Culinarily, onions tend to be more pungent than shallots. While shallots can typically be subbed for onions, when a recipe calls for shallots, it typically is calling for that slightly more nuanced flavor that onions can’t match. In the grocery store, shallots tend to be more costly. Which is why it’s a great idea to grow your own! 

Growing Shallots: Quick Start Guide

The basics of growing shallots are the same as any other multiplier onion. It all starts with where you source your bulbs.  

• Shallots are grown from bulbs. Step one is to source your shallots from a trusted source. 

• Depending on your growing zone, establish your planting time, either spring or fall. 

• Prepare your beds for planting with plenty of compost, organic matter, and any necessary amendments. 

• Plant your shallots root end down. When planting in the fall in cooler growing zones, consider mulching after planting. 

• The days to harvest will depend on your planting time, but typically it’s between seven and nine months when planted in fall and about four months when planted in spring. 

• Shallots don’t store for as long as garlic or onions but can be cured and stored for about two months or preserved another way. 

How to Grow Shallots

When starting from square one, it’s important to understand the various elements that contribute to a bumper crop of shallots. This guide will help you step-by-step through growing shallots

When to Plant Shallots

In warm zones, zone five and up, shallots can be planted in the fall just after or around your first fall frost. Growing the shallots for seven to nine months will result in a larger harvest than spring planted shallots. In zone four or cooler, we recommend planting in spring. Spring planted shallots will produce a smaller harvest, however it is still well worth it for this delicious allium! This is because shallots can’t withstand extremely cold winters. In fact, even in zones five, six, and sometimes seven, we recommend mulching your shallots with straw for the winter to keep them nice and warm. 

How to Plant Shallots: Step-by-Step

Add specific measurements and spacing:

1. Prepare your bed for planting. Make sure your soil is well amended with compost and organic matter. Remove rocks and break up any clods of soil or clay down to at least eight inches deep. 

2. Break up your shallots if there are two or more in a cluster. Removing paper is not necessary.

3. Create divots in the soil six to eight inches apart in rows that are ten to 12 inches apart. Plant each shallot two to three inches deep in these divots with the root side down. Have the top of the shallot just ever so slightly sticking out of the ground. 

4. Once planted, water well and consider covering them with about two inches of mulch, especially in cooler zones when planting in fall. 

Soil, Sun, and Water Requirements

Shallots want well-draining soils. It is essential to break up clods of clay, and if your soil is especially clay-ey, we recommend planting your shallots in raised beds. With a soil test, you can learn your nutrient availability. If your test shows a phosphorus deficiency, amend your soil with bone meal ahead of planting. But honestly, mixing organic matter and bone meal into your soil ahead of planting is always a good idea when growing shallots. 

Like most other crops, shallots would appreciate about an inch of water per week. When planting in fall, we recommend watering your shallots through the winter if there is a significant drought. If you overwater, especially if your soil doesn’t have the best drainage, this will result in the bulbs rotting. About a week prior to harvesting, pull back on watering. This will help with the storage ability of your shallots.

Pest Management

Shallots have their own array of pests that can affect your harvest. While generally not as severe as other crops, a bad infestation can definitely mean a declined yield! 

Onions Maggots

Onion maggots are larvae and they’re laid around the base of shallots and other alliums. They feed on the bulbs underground, which means the first signs a gardener sees are wilting plants or yellowing leaves. Prevention is essential since folks don’t usually find out about it until feeding has already happened. In early spring, covering your shallots with row cover will prevent adult flies from laying around your shallots. Crop rotation is also a great tool, so that the adults don’t catch on to where to come back to year after year. 

Thrips

Thrips are above-ground pests that suck the moisture from leaves, leaving silvery streaks behind that can cause stunted growth. If you have had a history of heavy thrip infestations in your garden, we recommend starting pest control early with neem oil or insecticidal soap. A mild presence of thrips shouldn’t affect your harvest too much, but it’s always easier to handle infestations early rather than wait until they get bad! 

Aphids

Aphids are one of the most common garden pests with a taste for just about anything. This is another sucking insect that, in reasonable numbers, is more annoying than destructive. However, we recommend the same treatment for aphids as we do for thrips. Do your best to not let them get out of hand! 

Caring for Shallots

After planting and throughout the growing season, there are a few things to keep in mind to get the best results. Shallots do not compete well with weeds. Weeds aren’t usually spreading until spring time, so for fall planted shallots, you have some time to relax. But as soon as the temperatures warm up, the weeds will too. Keep your shallot patch free of any weeds to reduce competition. 

You applied bone meal at planting - do you have to fertilize again? Giving your fall-planted alliums a little boost come spring time rarely hurts. We recommend re-applying bone meal or using an all-purpose garden fertilizer as the tops start to develop in spring. Fertilize again about eight weeks before you’re expecting to harvest, for both spring and fall planted shallots. 

How to Harvest Shallots

Shallots are ready to harvest when the green tops turn brown and dry up. You should be able to see how wide the clump of shallots has gotten over the season. About six inches from the edge of that clump, put a shovel in the ground as deep as it will go. Press down on the handle so that the tip of the shovel moves upward, loosening the soil around the shallots. Repeat as necessary and once you’re able, simply lift the clump of shallots out of the soil. Divide the shallot bulbs gently and gently brush off any remaining dirt or soil. Do not wash them with water. This is where you want to be especially careful. Shallots are very prone to bruising which will affect their storage and eating quality. If you’re growing a small amount of shallots, work quickly. You want to avoid exposing them to direct sunlight for more than a few minutes really. If you’re growing large quantities, harvest them in batches. You can expect each shallot you planted to produce between four and 12 shallots in the clump. 

How to Cure and Store Shallots

Once harvested, lay them out in a single layer in a warm, dry place. A shady spot in your yard where they’re protected from direct sunlight is great. You can leave the tops intact for the time being. If you’re able, putting them on a mesh screen or something that allows airflow to reach every side of the bulb is ideal. In a week or two, they will be cured. As you’re setting them up to cure, if you notice that some of the skin isn’t fully developed, eat them immediately. They will not store well. 

Once cured, cut back what remains of the tops and trim the roots. You’ll want to store them in a cool, dry spot and use them as needed in the kitchen. 

Shallots are harvested in the summer when the green tops turn brown and dry up. Lift your shallots out of the ground gently with a garden fork. Avoid bruising them as damaged bulbs won’t keep. Dry them in a shady place in your garden or in a dry place - garages work great! If any of the shallots' skin isn’t completely developed, eat them immediately as they will not store well. Pick the more favorable shallots to save for next year’s seed. These should be the largest     shallots without any blemishes and well formed skins. They will keep well in a cool, dry place. 

Common Problems and How to Fix Them

There are a range of problems that can arise when growing shallots. Most can be fixed with small adjustments, and others are a lesson learned so you can do better next year!

Overwatering

Overwatering any root crop can quickly lead to rot and fungal diseases, but this is especially true with the delicate shallot. You also want to ensure you’re not underwatering! The best solution is to maintain the soil moisture level by watering regularly in even bouts. Mulch around your shallots to hold in moisture and regulate the soil temperature. 

Poor Drainage

Poor drainage is in the same vein of overwatering, but is typically due to your soil conditions rather than your watering habits. Heavy, clay soils hold water for much longer which can eventually have the same outcome as overwatering. It is also more difficult for the shallots to develop in these conditions. Take care to amend your soil well and deep before planting, or grow your shallots in containers or raised beds. 

Planting too Deep

Shallots that are planted too deep and covered entirely (remember, we said to leave those tops sticking out just a little bit), don’t develop to their full size potential. The height of the shallots may vary slightly, so plant to the depth of that shallot that allows the top to stick out slightly. 

Poor Bulb Development

Poor bulb development can happen for a number of reasons, but if the above problems aren’t the culprit - it might be a nutrient deficiency! Namely, phosphorus or potassium deficiency. Amending your soil with bone meal and azomite ahead of planting and fertilizing again come spring for fall-planted shallots should solve this problem! 

Shallot FAQ’s

If we haven’t answered all of your questions yet, fear not. We’re about to! 

Do shallots come back every year?

Shallots are a type of multiplier onion, and are not true perennials. Shallots are biennial, meaning they will form a bulb cluster the first year and flower the second year. When growing shallots, gardeners typically harvest the clusters, and replant bulbs. Leaving them in the ground though will result in blooms and inedible roots. 

How many shallots grow from one bulb?

You can expect the clump produced from each planted bulb to have between four and 12 shallots. 

Can you grow shallots in containers?

Yes! Container grown shallots are great because containers have great drainage. However, containers are more prone to freezing in the winter. If planting in fall, take care to keep your containers in a protected area so they don’t freeze so severely. If they freeze too much, they won’t grow come springtime. 

Are shallots perennial or annual?

Shallots are biennials that are typically grown as annuals. 

Ready to get growing? Be sure to pre-order your shallot bulbs from a trusted source to ensure you have exactly what you need for planting time.  

	Article Written by: Hannah Gibbons
	About the Author: Hannah Gibbons, an employee at Sow True Seed since 2020, has nearly a decade of experience in the agricultural industry. Their passion for environmental education and regenerative agriculture has been the cornerstone of their work, aimed at making gardening accessible to all.